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if I were making a sword out of a pool noodle, what size pipe would line the inside?

Steve

dont use pool noodles to make weapons, its the wrong foam!

You can, however, try to make a pool noodle out of a weapon.

But can I make a raft out of Resource markers?

with enough duct tape, you can do anything...

You might get a resource marker for a raft.

I know that I am also starting to look into making myself some personallized weapons, maybe this would be a good thread to start people talking about what they use to make their weapons, what techniques they use, etc. etc.

I know there are at least three foam smiths around. I wouldn't ask anyone to give up their trade secrets but even generalities would be a good start.

The foam factory has some good stuff. I havent been there in a few years but I have used 1/2" and 1/4" polyethylene sheet from there. The url is http://www.foambymail.com/Polyethylene.html they are located in Clinton Township

The materials depends on wether you want a flat or tube weapon. Sheet foam is much more expensive and harder to make but lasts much longer. Tube foam weapons ae cheaper, faster and easier, but tend to need repair after about 6 events if you are a warrior type due to the abuse they take. I can make either.

Well, for the how I've made weapons:

For my old shortsword (granted most never saw it due it's demise last year and subsequent lack of remake), I used a broken graphite fishing rod for the 'pipe'. I then took a pool noodle and sliced it in half, removed the portions so it was flat on the cut side, then cut each side to the same thickness as the old green foam we've used. Also I cut the angles, I wanted so it'd look like a blade, and made a groove for the rod to fit in. At this point I used the bench sander (great for scuplting foam) to make everything even and smooth (as the cutting left all uneven and nasty). Afterwards, I used rubber cement on each side, and let it dry without adhering the two together (well, mostly dry, which is why it broke, sort of, using contact cement and letting it dry fully will give a much better contact). Then I placed the rod in the groove, and attached the two halves together.

At this point, I silver duct taped the sucker, then went with the exacto and other colors for detailing. If you do detailing with duct tape, place the tape on a flat surface that it won't pick up dust or anything from (like a piece of sheet metal) and you can not worry about cutting into with a knife. Then either draw out the design or go right to cutting, remove the keeper section and plce on the weapon.

For the handle, I used a butt load of duct tape to get it to the right size and happily was about the right weight ratio, then adhered a layer of fabric to that via more contact cement and a little duct tape at each end. I then took two strips of leather and wound them around the handle in opposite directions (adhered with contact cementand duct tape) to give that diamond pattern.

For the hilt I used block foam and just carved it out with a knife. Then taped it up via the same method as mentined before. I also put a hole through the center large enough to slide it onto the sword over the handle snugly. I then contact cemented both conact sections, let it dry, shoved it on real quick. Ultimately, I used the wrong block foam for this (too coarse) so it didn't have a lot of surface area to adhere to.

For the pommel, went back to the block foam and did the exact same as the hilt, however the hole only went halfway through. Again, smaller celled foam would have been a bonus, but alas the stuff I used was free.

Granted the next gen will be much cooler, as I'm looking into trying out my hand at the latex weapons, but with somewhat lighter foam so they aren't so hard. Plus I can do much more detail with that stuff. Just need to figure how they make it non sticky. Seems to be everyone's trade secret. So far I've read like talc, but it makes the weapon dull.

Thanks for all of your guys input. It helps.

As for Latex weapons, I think I read somewhere about using silcone spray to make it not sticky.